So unpropitious a face did it turn to the average
urban explorer for country homes, that a certain tract of rough woodland
out in Connecticut, near the shore of the sound, went long unregarded.
It had abrupt, rocky ridges, and knolls of white maple and chestnut, and
an ancient hemlock grove, and a spacious swamp with a brown brook
winding through it. It had little to tempt the commonplace purchaser;
but when Mr. Ernest Thompson Seton came, its roughness and its diversity
appealed to him with a suggestion of his own remote wilds. He took the
harsh tract of woodland, with its one small clearing, and made of it a
unique expression of his own personality. As such, Wyndygoul has a
significance beyond that of most other homes of famous men; and any
description of it that was not at the same time something of an
interpretation of its maker’s genius, would be inadequate.
In a woodland of two hundred
acres, the boundaries do not crowd or obtrude. There is room for the
privacies and mysteries of the forest itself. The wild creatures who
inhabit there, guarded but unspoiled by a protection which is not thrust
upon their notice, find ample space to choose their own most fitting
resorts, whether of deep swam-thicket, or high, rocky brush-tangle, or
overhanging bank by the brown water, or grassy glade sun-steeped at
noon. There are seclusions within seclusions, so that the shy and
various inhabitants of Wyndygoul are not forced into associations of
other than their own choosing. From the iron gates that front the Cos
Cob highway, one sees nothing to reveal what lies behind. Between the
square stone pillars, flanked by a homelike lodge, unpretentious
outbuildings and a simple, attractive garden, a straight white road
leads away till the woods gather over it. To close the vista of such an
avenue, one might take for granted a palace,—but instead of that only
the green quiet and beneficence of trees.
Once fairly among the trees,
the road ascends the course of the rushing brook, turns at the foot of
the lake, curves in leisurely fashion to signify that the need of haste
is left behind, sends off alluring side roads that lead, one wonders
where, and mounts to the low and wide-roofed house of Wyndygoul,
standing on its high lawn backed by ancient hemlocks.
The house, a structure of
rough stone and heavy timbers, is not only new, but incomplete. When the
design is carried out, it will cover thrice the ground that it now
occupies. Yet for all its newness and its incompleteness, it looks as if
it had always been there; and, what is more noteworthy, it seems native
to the picture, as if it had its roots established among those of the
ancient hemlocks. A note of contradiction, adding piquancy to the scene,
is supplied by a gorgeous peacock, who spends most of his time strutting
up and down the low stone wall before the windows and spreading to the
sun the splendors of his tail.
From the west end of the
house the ground drops away, a rough steep of rock and hemlocks, down to
the lake. This lake (for a pond of eleven acres has fair claim to the
more dignified title if it possesses all the distinctions and advantages
of a lake except size) is the very center and heart of Wyndygoul. Few
lakes of full stature, indeed, can present such a diversity of
landscape. It has both high shores and low, of rock and bush and
tree-roots, or of smoothest lawn, or of sand. It has inlets, cliffs,
islands and bridges; and in many parts the swimmer may dive safely from
the shore into its deep, cool, tawny water.
This lake, which bears every
mark of the authentic product of nature, has been made from an unsightly
waste of swamp. Not nature, but an infinite deal of digging and damming
by a host of indifferent Italian laborers, created it. But so rightly
and with such knowledge of nature did Mr. Seton design it, setting his
dam where once, in dim, forgotten days, the wise beavers had established
a kindred structure, that nature has not hesitated to accept it and mark
it all over with the seal of her full approval. The great dam, whence
the brook rushes foaming and softly clamorous into a deep trout pool,
does not proclaim itself a dam, but merges graciously into the broken,
rocky shores on either side, making haste to clothe itself with the
luxuriance of elder and pokeweed. The upper portion of the lake is split
by a precipitous, wooded point of maple, ash, white oak, and chestnut.
On one side of this point a shaded cove shelters the landing-place for
the boats and canoes, at the head of a stretch of sward called the
Peacock Lawn,—a beautiful spot which the peacocks, who were not
consulted in the naming of it, have agreed to ignore. On the other side
of the point a sheer cliff, called the Rimrock, gray and scarred, drops
into deep water. Opposite Rimrock is a steep, wooded islet, called Bird
Island, much affected by the wild ducks in the nesting season. A little
further up the lake is all islands, with winding channels between them,
where the glassy water doubles every leaf and branch and stem, and the
shadows sleep undisturbed while the swooping gusts are darkening the
outer reaches. At the beginning of the islands, where the shores draw
close, a high rustic bridge, of three frail, spidery arches, fitly named
the Monkey Bridge, affords a precarious crossing, some ten or twelve
feet above the water. Perhaps two hundred yards above the bridge the
lake ends, where the brook flows noisily in beneath another little
bridge, behind the last of the islands.
The lake is the heart of
Wyndygoul, because all eyes turn to it, all roads lead to it, and all
the life of the place centers about it. On its waters float wild ducks
of many species,—black-duck, mallard, wood-duck, teal, widgeon and
red-head. The garrulous snow geese from Texas make spots of whiteness on
the dark surface under the banks, or gather on the Peacock Lawn to
confer in high, thin voices about the weather. The stately Canada geese,
with their strong wings, fine arrogant heads and highbred garb of black,
white and brown, sail slowly from point to point, or patrol the banks,
pausing from time to time, to utter their sonorous bugle-calls. Among
the little islands the muskrats make safe homes, and the trees near the
shore are thronged with squirrels and song-birds. Only the hares and
rabbits, of whom there are several species on the place, seem
indifferent to the lake, making their resort in the remoter coverts.
Doubtless even in this protected wilderness the blood law of the wild
prevails at times in spite of all the efforts of the master of the
domain to let none but the kindlier kindreds within the pale. The red
squirrel will rob and kill when his wanton spirit so moves him; and the
mink, no doubt, takes tribute now and then in more than fish; and the
owl and the hawk will sometimes hunt where the hunting is so good. But
where these are the sole marauders life may be accounted safe indeed, as
the life of the wild kin goes; and neither hawk nor owl finds a gun
awaiting him at Wyndygoul.
Across the lake from the
Peacock Lawn is a little landing, with a path leading up the bank to a
small cleared space among the trees, with a painted "medicine
rock" in the center. Here are pitched four genuine
"tepees," brilliant with aboriginal decorations; and here, at
times, Mr. Seton "plays Injun" with boy friends who come from
different parts of the country to camp with him. These tepees are the
handiwork of Indians of the plains and the far West, of Black-foot and
Sioux; and at these encampments the game is played as systematically and
completely as possible, even to the lighting of the camp-and tepee-fires
by means of the "fire-stick." On the lake are two birch-bark
canoes, made by the Melicite Indians of the River St. John, in New
Brunswick; so that here at Wyndygoul the East and West meet amicably.
All Indians are interesting to those who play the game with proper
enthusiasm, and love it as they play.
It is, above all, this love
of "playing the game" that is so characteristic a note of life
at Wyndygoul, as it is so marked a characteristic of the master of
Wyndygoul himself. Alike into his science and his art he carries the
enthusiasm of the boy. A careful and scientific naturalist, he has been
gathering from boyhood a wealth of data with which to build the
structures of his art, but alike, into the gathering and the building,
has entered the element of personal love,—that ardor of sincerity
which a healthy boy carries into construction of a hut in the woods.
This quality makes it possible for his writings, whether dealing with
animals or with Indians, to convey an immense amount of information, of
exact and minute detail, without seeming overloaded or didactic. They
entertain so perfectly that one forgets how accurately they instruct. It
is much the same with Mr. Seton’s play at Wyndygoul. Whether the game
be archery or fire-making, or the reading of forest signs, or trailing
the "burlap deer," or canoeing, or imitating the calls of the
wild creatures, all is done for its own sake, with a sincerity that
makes it a replica of life, as well as with the accuracy of the mind
trained to the gathering and presentation of exact knowledge. When boys
come to "play Injun" with the master of Wyndygoul, neither
they nor he is concerned about the fact that they are being consummately
educated in woodcraft and trained to that outdoor life which means
health for body and soul. What concerns them is the fact that they are
doing what they want to be doing, and doing it with all their might, and
believing in it all the time.
It is such blending of the
naturalist and artist with the elemental and primitive,—in other
words, with the boy,— which has found substantial expression in
Wyndygoul. It is the same blending, with the addition of an admirable
literary form, which has differentiated Mr. Seton’s books from all
their predecessors, and made him the founder of the new school of
nature-study,—a school which, while yielding nothing to the old-school
naturalists in the matter of exact observation, goes much beyond them,
in that it seeks for the motives underlying the conscious acts of
sentient beings. With the realization that animals are neither mere
automata nor the helpless prisoners of instinct, but creatures governed
by an intelligence which differs more in degree than in kind from that
of a man, has arisen an interest in the mental processes of our lower
kindreds. These processes Mr. Seton seeks to infer as one would infer
those of human agents, from such actions of theirs as he has been
enabled to observe. And it is all this, I think, which justifies the
critic in applying the word epochal to the work of the master of
Wyndygoul.